Early data suggest Everest will see a record year, primarily driven by Chinese and Indian clients. I won’t be surprised to see over 1,000 total summits from both sides. The Icefall Doctors are already at work. Sherpas are setting up Base Camp, which is starting to look like a small city. The Himalayan winter was warm and dry, causing the snow line on Everest to move higher and increasing the chances of rockfall. Climbers need to be very aware and stay safe this season.
Violence In Kathmandu
Climbers may have some issues getting to Kathmandu. On March 28, 2025, the District Administration Office (DAO) of Kathmandu imposed a curfew in response to a violent protest organized by a monarchist group demanding the restoration of the constitutional monarchy. The curfew order is effective from 4:25 PM to 10:00 PM. Hopefully, this will not last for long.
The US State Department updated its Nepal page as follows:
Exercise increased caution in Nepal due to the potential for isolated political violence. Country Summary: Political demonstrations intended to be peaceful can sometimes escalate into violence and may be met with force by Nepali authorities. Read the country information page for additional information on travel to Nepal. If you decide to travel to Nepal:
- Avoid demonstrations and crowds.
- Monitor local media for breaking events and be prepared to adjust your plans.
- Do not trek or climb alone. The Government of Nepal requires solo or foreign independent trekkers (FITs) to use a local guide or porter while trekking in Nepal’s official national parks and protected areas.
- Review the Adventure Travel Page before your trip.
- Enroll in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
- Follow the Department of State on Facebook and X/Twitter.
- Review the Country Security Report for Nepal. Visit the CDC page for the latest Travel Health Information related to your travel. U.S. citizens who travel abroad should always have a contingency plan for emergency situations.
- Review the Traveler’s Checklist.
Big Picture
Several media reports have the snow line moving higher in the Himalayas, portending bad news for climbers. Snow glues loose rocks to the surface, where otherwise they can be easily kicked down the mountain, hitting climbers. We’ll see how Everest looks once the rope fixers get above C2. Over on Annapurna, it seems bleak since the route is usually snow-covered just above base camp, and this year, climbers used trekking boots to reach C1 without crampons.
This is the money line from the study:
Pelto calculated that the average snow line on Mount Everest region glaciers on January 28, 2025, was at approximately 6,100 meters (20,000 feet), having risen 150 meters (490 feet) since December 11, 2024. “This change was by sublimation, not melt,” he said. In those two months, Nepal experienced drier and warmer conditions than normal, officials from Nepal’s Department of Hydrology and Meteorology have reported. Compounding the issue, snow lines were already above average at the start of winter, Pelto said, after a dry start to 2024 and a warm, wet post-monsoon season.
The Icefall Docs are progressing, while EBC on the Nepal side is buzzing with activity. Sherpas are digging tent platforms out of the Khumbu Glacier and setting up the massive tents for cooking, dining and storage. Members won’t arrive until early to mid-April, so the operators have a few weeks to prepare everything.
We are starting to get a feel for the number of climbers this year, with 8K Expeditions reporting that they have 50 members and Seven Summits Treks, the largest operator on Everest, will have over 100 members. These sizes suggest a record season, but we’ll wait for the Ministry of Tourism to report how many permits they issue to get a final feel. By late April, we’ll know a lot more.
The all-volunteer medical organization Everest-ER’s tent was established at EBC. The Docs provide free health care to all the Sherpas there and offer medical care for clients for a nominal fee.
Nepali goliath Seven Summits Treks provided an update on the number of clients for the 8000ers they guide:
- Everest (8,848.86 m): Over 100 climbers
- Lhotse (8,516 m): Approximately 20 climbers
- Annapurna I (8,091 m): Approximately 30 climbers
- Makalu (8,485 m): Approximately 30 climbers
- Kanchenjunga (8,586 m): Approximately 35 climbers
- Dhaulagiri (8,167 m): Approximately 10 climbers
In the good news department, Willie Benegas is returning to Everest. Willie and his brother, Damian, were mainstays on the Hill for years, often participating in rescues and helping fix the route. It’s good to see him back.
Welcome to the Benegas Brothers Blog! I’m thrilled to announce that after 25 years since my very first summit in 1999, I’m heading back to the roof of the world—Everest. With 13 successful Everest ascents under my belt and Lhotse now on the agenda, this journey promises to be my most exhilarating yet. I hope to summit Everest for the 14th time.
I’ll be taking you along every step of the way through detailed blog updates and exclusive YouTube videos, sharing not just the breathtaking views and challenging climbs, but also the personal reflections and insights that come with decades of high-altitude experience. Whether you’re a seasoned mountaineer or an adventure enthusiast eager to learn more about life in the Himalayas, there’s something here for everyone.
Last Week-Icefall Progress
This past week, the Icefall Doctors have been hard at work, fixing 1,000+ meters of rope through the fragile and treacherous sections of the Khumbu Icefall. So far, they’ve placed four ladders over challenging overhangs and identified several hanging areas along the route.
- Snowy Horizon
- Pioneer
- 7 Summit Trek
- 7 Summit Club
- Cha Tours
- Elite Expedition
- Himalayan Guides/AC
- Peak Promotion
- Himalayan Ascent
- Asian Trekking
Other 8000er
Of the fourteen peaks higher than 26,000 feet or 8,000 meters, eight are entirely in Nepal or straddle the border with either India or Tibet. Media reports have permits issued for Everest-450, Annapurna-50, Dhaulagiri-20, Makalu-60, Lhotse-80, and Kanchenjunga-40. There are no reports from Cho Oyu, from the Nepal side, or for Manaslu.
Cho Oyu and Shishapangma will not see climbers this spring because China closed both peaks for undisclosed reasons. It’s assumed they will be available in the Autumn climbing season, but who knows with China?
On Annapurna, Sherpas have established Camp 3, and teams are waiting in Baase Camp for a good weather window. Due to slightly better weather than on Everest, Anna has become the first peak to see summits. Imagine Nepal provides this disturbing update:
I have never experienced Annapurna in such a worst condition. We used to climb on Crampons to camp1 on Annapurna and this years we are using our normal trekking boots in same places. Here is a video just above camp3, we took 2 days to find way in this icefall. Never saw such conditions on Annapurna above 6000m. Our team reached 7600m tackling with many A shaped crevasses and had to abort the summit because of lack of rope. We were prepared with enough rope till summit as we knew how much rope we need but with numerous of crevasses and tackling with those crevasse, we ran out of rope. But we will give another try and we won’t miss the summit this time. Waiting for next weather window….
Those who thought mountaineering has become stale may want to watch Italian Gianluca Cavalli and Peruvian César Rosales, who will attempt to open a new route on Annapurna’s northwest spur.
Next Week
As we officially begin April soon, arrivals will increase, and many will be on the trail trekking to Goyko or Everest Base Camp. Some will tag EBC and then go on to Lobuche, Island Peak, or other destinations, while some will settle in at camp, making it their home for the next two months.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
Himalayan Database
I use the Himalayan Database as my primary source of Everest summit statistics. If you are climbing in 2022, they ask you to fill in an electronic web-based survey, replacing the time-consuming process of visiting each team in their hotel before the climb. In addition, you can now download the HDB for free at their site.
Follow Along!
If you would like to see anything special this year, post a comment or drop me an email.
Here’s the Podcast of this Weekend Update
The Podcast on alanarnette.com
You can listen to #everest2025 podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Breaker, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.
Previous Everest 2025 Season Coverage Posts
- Everest 2025: Weekend Update March 30
- Everest 2025: Weekend Update March 23
- Everest 2025: Welcome to Everest 2025 Coverage – an introduction to the Everest 2025 Spring season
- Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition – A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database
- Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2025 Edition – A detailed look at Everest’s routes, commercial, standard and non-standard
- How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2025 Edition – My annual review of what it costs to climb Everest solo, unsupported and guided
Why this coverage?
I like to use these weekend updates to remind my readers that I’m just one guy who loves climbing. With 38 serious climbing expeditions, including four Everest trips under my belt and a summit in 2011, I use my site to share those experiences, demystify Everest each year, and bring awareness to Alzheimer’s Disease. My mom, Ida Arnette, died from this disease in 2009, as have four of my aunts. It was a heartbreaking experience that I hope no other family will go through; thus, I asked for donations to non-profits, which 100% goes to them and nothing ever to me.
- Ida Arnette 1926-2009
Preparing for Everest is more than Training
If you dream of climbing mountains but are unsure how to start or reach your next level, from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, we can help. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers worldwide achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 30 years of high-altitude mountain experience and 30 years as a business executive. Please see our prices and services on the Summit Coach website.
